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Polymerman Boat Build: Temptress
Hello Fellow Temptress Builders:
Since I seem to have questions almost daily, I decided to start a new topic. As most of you know, I post my Temptress Build videos on YouTube.
With each step I run into new challenges, and hope hoping this group can provide advice.
Thanks,
Bob Kody
So here is my challenge. I have assembled frame 4. But it is so large, that when I dry attached the bulkhead, the bottom-side SLB2-13 hole is covered by the frame/bulkhead. What is the best way to align and attached the strongback legs.
I know that I could do it by measurement, but since I am publishing videos, I would like to show the best method.
Thanks,
Bob
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I figured it out. I placed the strongback legs down first, aligned them to the SBL dowels, and then put the frame on top.
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Hi Bob
Feel free to ask as many questions as you like. Temptress is a complex boat build and so I am expecting there to be questions. We are also among the first to begin working through these plan sets and there are bound to be "tweaks" needed for things that need altering.
For full disclosure, it took me around 4 months of looking over the model after Michel delivered it to me before I felt ready to start tackling the process of kitting this thing, I was quite daunted by it. Some of the processes used I took a few attempts at. The strongback system, transom jigs and configuration for example, I did two completely different ways before we ended up at what we have now.
In short I am expecting there to be some "oversights" along the way. Nothing will be majorly, dimensionally wrong but things such as the gusset dowel holes we have discovered and leg holes covered over, we may come across, all things that we can do a work around for and I'm keen to use this feedback to better the process. It's another reason for me wanting to work through the model.
Anyway, it looks as though you have worked out the legs, thats great. The other fix here would be to create another SBL hole, using a straight edge up against the existing SBL dowels, using this edge to drill a new SBL hole in the opening of the bulkhead or in the case of frame 9, outside of the framing boundary. I am yet to do frames 4 and 9 in the model, it now looks like I will run into the same issue as you so I'll cover that in the next video.
Keep up the great work you are doing and feel free to ask any question you like no matter how trivial it may seem.
Cheers
Dan
Thank you, Dan. Your 1/4 scale videos are incredibly helpful. After this week, you will be far enough ahead of me that I will be able to follow you. But I am sure that I will have questions….
Yes probably, I have been doing the transom this week so we'll cover that in the next video.
Hello – I am ready to assemble frame 10. The plans do not have a keel filler, and I watched Dan‘s 1/4 build of frame 10.
I have not decided if I will power the boat with the Ilmor that Dan’s plans outline, or with an electric motor. I am years away from this decision.
My Question: Should I add a keel filler to frame 10, just in case I choose an electric motor in the future? I will add keel gussets either way.
Thanks,
Bob
You could go either way here really Bob. The boat is designed to have this section removed further down the line and so will be plenty strong enough with it removed regardless of how you power it. Therefore it wont hurt to remove it even if the clearance isn't needed. That being said it also wouldn't hurt to leave it in.
Maybe put a temporary gusset on the frame as I did, a keel filler as well if you like. When it comes to installing the bottom, if you avoid using any metal fasteners in this area it will still be easily cut out with a multi cutter or similar down the line if you need to, if not it could just stay put.
Thank you. I think that I will add a keel filler and keel gusset.
I hoping that electric becomes a viable option when it is time for me to install a motor.
Hello - I am working on the Temptress transom. I plan to use the Shaper Origin to cut slots for dominos to adjoin the 4 laminated sides of the transom. I am excited to use the Shaper Origin as a Festool Domino.
But since I am making a video, and others may not have a Shaper Origin or a Festool Domino (and biscuits and dowels are not great)… Is there any reason that one cannot just add gussets to each corner? See the orange triangles that I drew below to represent gussets. This may be easier for most…
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I did try to come up with some sort of finger joint system that could be done between alternating laminations but in the end I thought it would have been nearly impossible to get it all together accurately. I don't see any issue with adding gussets on to the transom framing like that, it would work just fine.
Question: should I permanently bond the transom to the frame laminate now? Or is there a reason that I should wait till after the keel and stringers are in place?
Thanks,
Bob
I would leave the transom skin off for now. It will make installation of the stringers and keel much easier as they can be run out through it for now and then trimmed back afterwards before the skin is installed.
Thank you. Hope to finish it and publish a video this weekend. The transom took a bit of work. But so far, I am happy.
Question: When I lay up the stem laminate made of 15 layers of solid 5/16" thick Sapele boards, do I coat with unfilled epoxy and then thicken epoxy, or just use thickened epoxy?
FYI - I plan to use high density filler. Lot's of icebergs in Minnesota. So I need a strong Stem.
I am struggling to bend Al 15 boards for the Stem Laminate. Any ideas?
Looking good Bob! Just laminate a few at a time, if your clamps will only pull in 4 for example glue up 4 layers, let them dry and then do the next 4. Might take a bit longer but its far less force on the whole arrangement in one go!
Re the glue up, I don't usually wet out each lamination with un thickened epoxy in instances like this but I do use a more runny mixture. As a middle ground between the two, no need for it to be usual glue thickness particularly if you have good flat stock and no need for gap filling properties which you do. Coat both faces though before you assemble the lamination to prevent one of the layers drying things out. I highly recommend applying with the fine tooth section of the West notched spreader so you get a good even glue film over each lamination.
Thank you, Dan.
Several viewers suggest that I steam the stem boards before bending. In the 1/4 scale build you suggest to not steam the boards. Can you help me explain to viewers, why bending dry is better?
PS – I have successfully dry-bent all of the stem boards, one at a time. I will let them sit on the jig for a few days for stress-relaxation. Then I will cold mold in 3 stages (5 boards at a time).
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You can steam bend them. The only thing is that you need to leave plenty of time for the moisture content of the wood to come back down again before epoxying the laminations together. You don't want to risk doing this with damp wood!
I did steam bend laminations when I did the cockpit coaming for Miss Isle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-PotjTUjmw
You really need to leave the wood a couple of days at least to dry back out. Perhaps get a little moisture content meter if you can? Steaming first would likely reduce the spring back in the lamination but it's a longer process due to the two stages needed.