Quote from Dan Lee on 25th July 2023, 1:44 pm

Hi Jason 

This is a good question and often one that people debate. I am actually currently working on a video that will seek to answer this question definitively, covering all of the possible variables. It may be some time until it’s released though as I am working with West System on it and it involves a trip to their facility that I have planned. I am also having them check the script for it to make sure I am accurate.

Anyway, in the meantime, if you are coating teak faced plywood then by all means, yes coat with epoxy. If the solid teak is only trims, handles and mouldings then you will also be fine. As long as it’s nothing thats going to “work too much”. You have 3.4% tensile elongation with the 207 product; in short meaning that a 100mm piece of wood can be expanded to 103.4mm before you are likely to see a failure in the surface. Joints and seams are actually where you are most likely to exceed this tolerance if they aren’t “stable”.

The super yacht industry is almost entirely using this process now for internal furniture and joinery. The grain filling and protection properties of the epoxy are unmatched in this scenario and if you don’t have as much, harsh UV exposure to worry about then even better.

I probably wouldn’t recommend the woodfinish gloss for coating over epoxy though. That varnish is really designed to be breathable and flexible, ideal over bare working teak but not soo much over an epoxy base. It won’t really get to do what it’s designed for. I’d personally go with a 2 part clear product as it will match the hardness, flexibility (minimal) and hard wearing properties of the epoxy thats beneath it.

Remember to properly de grease the teak before application. 

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions. 

Quote from Jason Nuttall on 25th July 2023, 3:36 pm

Hi Dan,

Many thanks for your reply.

I actually made a mistake in my original post; the furniture I’m rejuvenating is in the cabin, not the cockpit, so even less weathering and therefore less of an issue using epoxy-coatings!

I’m not expecting any of the wood to elongate that much (and it would be an issue if it did), not being exposed outside, so hopefully all good.

I only thought about Woodfinish Gloss because that’s what I’m using in the cockpit on Iroko, which isn’t being epoxied first.

As it’s teak, I thought I’d use the same, however yes, with the epoxy on first, I did wonder whether that eliminates the issues of using other varnishes on oily wood (like teak).

My concerns with the 2-part systems (I’ve not got to that session yet…) is that I’ve read they are an issue to repair and/or refresh, and they’re less flexible, and so more likely to chip if knocked.

Is this true?

 

Thanks again.

 

Quote from Dan Lee on 31st July 2023, 11:01 am

I don't personally think they are more difficult to repair. If anything two part systems can be polished soo well, and usually a day or two after application. This makes blending a spot repair in far easier than it is with varnish. Also polishing out a small mark is simple. 

At the end of the day if you knock something hard enough to chip it out right back to the bare wood, it doesn't matter if it's single part or two part, the finish will still likely chip. 

Quote from Jason Nuttall on 4th October 2023, 2:30 pm

Hello.

 I have epoxied this panel, and now going to go over it with two-part Epiphanes Polyurethane, rather than just a one-part varnish (as discussed with Dan at the Boat Show).

Then will go over it with a one-part Epiphanes Clear Gloss to give it the amber hue. 🙂

I won’t be using PP for this component given the cost for only needing a tiny amount at present.

However, I can’t find anywhere that suggests how many coats to use if both are being applied (one and two-part varnishes).

Dan’s video states 3 coats of two-part (although I will be brushing it on as it’s a small component), but on the video that was the final coat.

I’ve applied 3 coats of 105/207, (although probably only effectively 2 as I had to sand between coats due to needing to wait for each coat to fully dry on this occasion).

Then I’m thinking 3 coats of two-part, then, say 5 of one-part.

Is this overkill for a non-trafficked component? (It’s a small instrument panel that’s in the cockpit, but set back a bit.

I’m not intending to spend longer than required just varnishing it, but equally I would like it to last, so I’m hoping there’s an ideal quantity.

Any suggestions please?

 

Many thanks,

Jason.

Quote from Dan Lee on 6th October 2023, 10:40 am

Hi Jason 

Nice to meet you at the show!

I think you are about right with 3 coats of two part and then 5 of single part. Essentially use the first round of two part coats (whether that is PP or another product) to get your surface flat and even out the undulations of the epoxy. Depending on the "fairness" of your epoxy surface you might find you need a bit more volume here. Once you are satisfied it is flat, then use the final coats (whether that is single or two part) to provide your gloss level and UV protection. 

For the final topcoat, 3 is generally the recommended minimum so at 5 you have a bit more protection. If you get to 3 and your are happy with the result I would say you could leave it there without issue, especially as this is a panel in the cockpit and isn't in a harsh exposed environment. If you want to press on and do more then it certainly wouldn't hurt.

I remember varnishing Miss Isle, coat 13 was beautiful and coat 15 for some reason, the magic just didn't happen and I then wished I'd left it at 13. I pressed on to 17 in the end and got the final finish I wanted 🙂 

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers 
Dan