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1/4 Scale boat plans

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Hello Dan.

I received the 1/4 scale plans, what software am I going to need to open the other files STEP and DXF. I opened the PDF files with out a problem but I didn't see dimensions to fabricate a strongback or water lines to start with. At this time i'm trying to get a list of materials i'll need to order, any help would be appreciated. 

Thank you Randy.

Hi Randy 

You will need a CAD viewer to be able to view the step file. Something like this will work: https://viewer.autodesk.com/

The dxf files will open in a range of softwares, anything that is used for CNC or laser cutting will typically open these. All bar the drawings file they are duplicates of the pdf pattern files so if you are cutting parts manually then you won't need the dxf's. 

There is no strong back system for this boat, everything slots together and aligns utilising the slots in the keel and stringer components. You could build a basic strong back if you wanted support in build but you can let the keel and stringers dictate the spacing for this. 

Let me know if you have any questions at all. 

Hi Dan.

 

Thanks you for taking the time to reply back, I went back and reviewed the frames and keel and see the notches to fit them together. It makes sense now why I won't need a strongback to build my 1/4 scale model, I'm headed for retirement and this will be my first project then on to the full size Temptress build. I'm watching your You Tube videos there inspiring and the level of craftsmanship is top notch. 

Thank you. Randy

 

Timothy Wojnowiak has reacted to this post.
Timothy Wojnowiak

Thanks Randy

Keep us posted with pictures of the model build. It will be great to see some of them coming together!

Dan,  

Getting ready to cut out my 1/4 scale boat. Great Plains watch all your videos 1/4 and Full scale, so much info in them.  Question:  is it required to add battens on the 1/4 scale or can I just use strip planks to cover the Top side?  Also was think of adding notches for battens to all the frame and just fill the gaps with thick epoxy and sawdust but I having a hard time adding the notches (not a pro at CAD software) what is your thoughts on this matter?  Do you have a DXF file with the notches locations that would be a great help?  thanks Dan

Hi

I would think you will be fine to plank the boat straight onto the frames. As this is derived from full size boat plans, much of it is probably overkill for the model size builds. 

Question, the wooden parts and/or its measurements aren’t included in the drawings. Any particular reason for that?

It would be nice to have them included since my “workshop” is in my living room and I need to get everything as finished as possible due to the lak of machines and space …

I am guessing you are referring to the planking? 

As it is some time since I have built a model in its entirety I don't know what would be best here. For a 1/4 scale build, the full size planking scaled down would dictate 3x layers of 2mm planking (diagonal) for the bottom and 3x 1.75mm (2x diagonal and then 1x longitudinal) for the sides. This boat has of course been first and foremost designed for full scale building and so this is likely overkill for modelling.

I would probably suggest 2x 3mm layers for the bottom. This may even be doable in ply instead of double diagonal but you'd have to try it and see if it will form, the boat is designed to be cold moulded and so may need to transition to strips up fwd. I also think the topside battens could be left out and the hull sides planked directly onto the framing, this saves the need for cutting notches for all of these. For this I would suggest 3-4mm longitudinal planking done in one layer strip planked. The boat is designed for 7x longitudinal topside planks at even widths for each frame station.

Decks can be done the same as the sides.

Hope that helps
Dan

Thanks for the reply. But I meant these;

 

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Ok, as I mentioned I think the topside battens could be omitted and the planking laid directly on to the framing, this would apply to the topside battens and chine top rail listed above. The bottom rail is a small fillet landing for where the bottom planking meets the chine flat, an appropriate sized timber can be gauged here when landing the bottom planking, or this may also be able to be omitted and the planks landed directly on to the chine flats. 

The sheer clamp should be built from square section timbers, you can see the process of doing that here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbfG-rWOw98

Dry fit

Dry Fitting 1/4 scale boat  everything is fitting good so far  

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Patrick has reacted to this post.
Patrick

Hi Dan,

Is the frame construction board also available in the 1/4 scale plans. I cannot seem to find it.

There is no Strong back board plains. I glued my together today and it sure would be nice if there was one. it was a pain trying to get the bulkheads to line up.  I don't have a clue how I'm going to plank it without a board.....   the last transom ring has no way to really get it to line up. it be nice if it had some notches to fit it.  another thing I would do is make sure the pieces have some slop. I added -.004" offset parts fit nice till you try to glue them. with I just cut it on. the outside and had a little slop.  will keep you posted on my progress.

 

Did sone more looking aT THE PDF FILES and I figured out how to attach Frame 13 now.  it should fit just fine. Sorry about my spelling skills but what I really wanted to say above is don't get your parts with a too tight fit. with I did not add the offset.  

 

Quote from M.C.A.D. Burger on 28th June 2025, 9:04 pm

Hi Dan,

Is the frame construction board also available in the 1/4 scale plans. I cannot seem to find it.

You don't need a frame construction board for this boat as all of the frames are complete solid pieces. They aren't jointed like on the full size boat or the model that I built. 

I can't get frame 13 transom to fit.  I believe it goes over the transom built frame, but it comes up short left and right.  Is there something I'm doing wrong

Im stuck at this point in my build.

 

Tim

My mistake it's the Transom frame I can't get to fit not Frame 13. sorry for the confusion 

 

Hi Tim 

Can you share some pictures that show what you mean?

Sorry I was on vacation attached are images of the transom frame which I assume it to be raped around the frame correct?  At a lost here 

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